When a print does not turn out as intended, there are usually just a few common reasons. Here are the most common problems and how to solve them.
1. Stringing / Oozing
Symptoms: Fine cobwebs or strands form between different parts of the print when the print head moves between areas.
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Solution 1: Adjust the retraction settings.
Increase retraction length (retraction distance) and speed (retraction speed) in the slicer settings. This pulls the plastic back before the head moves on to the next section.
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Solution 2: Lower the print temperature.
If the material is too hot it becomes too fluid and leaks more easily out of the print head (nozzle). Try lowering the temperature by 5°C–10°C.
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Solution 3: Dry the filament.
Heavy stringing is one of the main signs that there is moisture in the filament (especially with PETG, TPU and PEBA).
2. Material warps or curls up (Warping)
Symptoms: The corners or the bottom of the print lift away from the build plate, which can cause the part to become distorted or come loose entirely.
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Solution 1: Check the bed temperature.
Make sure the bed temperature is right for the material (e.g. ~60°C for PLA, ~70°C–80°C for PETG, ~100°C for ABS/ASA).
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Solution 2: Use an enclosure and turn off the fan.
Cold air/draughts in the room make the plastic contract suddenly. For ABS and ASA an enclosed printer is essential. Turn off or reduce the cooling fan (part cooling fan) on the first layers.
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Solution 3: Use “Brim” or “Raft” and improve adhesion.
Add Brim in the settings to enlarge the contact area with the plate. Clean the plate well with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or use an adhesion aid 3D adhesive
3. The first layer does not stick (First Layer Issues)
Symptoms: The material curls around the nozzle, forms blobs or simply does not stick to the build plate.
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Solution 1: Adjust the Z-Offset (distance of the nozzle from the plate).
If the nozzle is too far from the plate, the plastic is “dropped” into the air instead of being pressed down. If it is too close, the plastic cannot come out.
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Solution 2: Level the build plate (Bed Leveling).
Make sure the plate is perfectly level, whether done manually or with automatic levelling (Auto Bed Leveling).
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Solution 3: Clean the build plate thoroughly.
Grease from fingers prevents the plastic from sticking. Wash the PEI plate with washing-up liquid and lukewarm water or wipe it with alcohol
4. Missing material / too little material (Under-extrusion)
Symptoms: Layers in the print look half-empty, with perforated sides, weak structure or gaps in surfaces.
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Solution 1: Check for a blocked nozzle (Partial Clog).
Foreign particles or burnt plastic can block the nozzle. Perform a “Cold Pull” or use a fine cleaning needle.
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Solution 2: Raise the print temperature or reduce the print speed.
If you print too fast or at too low a temperature, the feeder (extruder) cannot melt the plastic quickly enough for the speed being requested.
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Solution 3: Check the extruder gears.
Make sure the drive gears are cleaned of plastic dust and that their tension is correct so that they do not grind the filament.
5. Too much material (Over-extrusion)
Symptoms: The print looks uneven, the layers bulge out to the sides, or the surface is uneven and rough.
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Solution 1: Adjust “Flow Rate” / “Extrusion Multiplier”.
Lower the flow rate in the slicer by 2%–5% at a time (example: from 100% down to 95%).
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Solution 2: Check the filament diameter.
Use calipers to check that the filament is really 1.75 mm and not uneven or too thick.
Summary of settings
| Problem | Most likely cause | First solution |
| Stringing | Temperature too high / retraction missing | Lower the temperature by 5°C & adjust retraction |
| Warping | Cooling too fast / poor adhesion | Use Brim, clean the plate & use an enclosure |
| Comes off the plate | Z-offset wrong / dirty plate | Wash the plate with washing-up liquid & adjust Z-offset |
| Under-extrusion | Clog or printing too fast | Lower the print speed or clean the nozzle |